_________________________________________________________________
This FAQ does not attempt to teach you locksmithing, just to answer
simple questions, give you some hints on getting started, and point
you to sources of information. Also included is a glossary of common
terms. The Appendix covers many supply places, books and tapes.
This FAQ is posted monthly to the USENET groups [2]"alt.locksmithing",
[3]"alt.answers", and [4]"news.answers". The latest version of the FAQ
should be available from the USENET FTP archives on "rtfm.mit.edu" in
directory "/pub/usenet/alt.locksmithing". You can also retrieve this
FAQ by email; send mail to "mail-server@rtfm.mit.edu" with "send
usenet/alt.locksmithing/a.l_a_t_F_A_Q_(F).Z" contained in the BODY of
the message.
A hypertext version of this FAQ may be accessed at indra.com on the
World Wide Web using "http://www.indra.com/archives/alt-locksmithing".
Version 6.10 Last changed 8/13/97
Questions Answered:
1. [5]Where can I get a lock pick set?
2. [6]How can I make my own picks and tension wrenches?
3. [7]Is it legal to carry lock picks?
4. [8]Where can I get the "MIT Guide to Picking Locks"?
+ [9]I can't print the Guide!
5. [10]What books can I get on locksmithing?
6. [11]What are "pick guns" or "automatic pickers" and do they work?
7. [12]How do I open a Kryptonite lock?
8. [13]Can the Club be picked? Is the Club any good?
9. [14]How can I get keys stamped "DO NOT DUPLICATE" duplicated?
10. [15]Do Skeleton Keys Exist?
11. [16]Should I bother with high security ("pick proof") locks and
other security enhancements for my home?
12. [17]What should I do after I read a book?
13. [18]How do I continue learning about locksmithing?
14. [19]How do I learn the locksmithing trade?
15. [20]How do I learn more about Master Keying?
16. [21]How do Simplex pushbutton locks work?
17. [22]Is there a formula that can find the combination of a Master
Lock?
18. [23]Can the combination of a Master Lock be found though
manipulation?
19. [24]What is the "shear line".
20. [25]What is "impressioning"?
21. [26]What is a code? What is a codebook?
22. [27]How do I open a car with a Slim Jim?
23. [28]What is a jiggler key?
24. [29]Is there an ethical dimension to locksmithing?
25. [30]I have a safe without the combination - how do I open it?
26. [31]How do I disassemble a Kwikset key in knob entry set?
* [32]Other online locksmithing related resources
* [33]Glossary
* [34]Appendix of sources, books, videotapes.
* [35]Information for collectors.
* [36]Credit & Thanks
1. Where can I get a lock pick set?
Try a locksmith supply house. Look under "Locksmiths' Equipment &
Supplies" in the Yellow Pages. Your State or the company may have
requirements, such as having to prove you are a locksmith or showing a
drivers license; call and find out. Also look for mail order houses in
the Appendix. You can also check on the Web for suppliers.
2. How can I make my own picks and tension wrenches?
You can file or or (more easily) grind picks out of spring steel. It
is best to use spring steel - sources include hacksaw blades, piano
(music) wire, clock springs, streetsweeper bristles (which can be
found along the street after the sweeper has passed), metal from a
plumbers "snake", etc. In a pinch safety pin steel, or even a bobby
pin (much worse) can be used. When grinding, keep the steel from
getting so hot as to anneal (soften) it. You may have to
re-harden/re-temper it. (See a book on knife making, gunsmithing, or
machine shop practice for a discussion on heat treating steel. Spring
steel is hardened and then tempered/drawn so as to retain some
hardness and to get quite a bit of flexibility.) Some people prefer a
rigid tension wrench and just bend a small screwdriver for this, but
many prefer a slightly flexible wrench and use spring steel.
The "MIT Guide to Picking Locks" and the "Eddie The Wire" books (see
below) cover making these tools. There are many places you can buy
picks and tension wrenches. See the appendix.
Steve Haehnichen <steve@vigra.com> maintains an archive of GIF and
JPEG images of picks located at [37]ftp://ftp.vigra.com/steve/locks/
which are useful guides for those making their own picks.
3. Is it legal to carry lock picks?
This depends on where you are. In the U.S. the common case seems to be
that it is legal to carry potential "burglar tools" such as keys,
picks, crowbars, jacks, bricks, etc., but use of such tools to commit
a crime is a crime in itself. Call your local library, district
attorney, police department, or your own attorney to be sure.
Posession of potential "burglar tools" can be be used as evidence
against you if you are found in incriminating circumstances. An
example of a state law can be found in the Viginia State Code: Section
18.2-94 _Possession of burglarious tools, etc._ "If any person have in
his possession any tools, implements or outfit, with intent to commit
burglary, robbery or larceny, upon conviction thereof he shall be
guilty of a Class 5 felony."
Note that the prosecution has to prove "intent". However, the law
continues: "The possession of such burglarious tools, implements or
outfit by any person other than a licensed dealer, shall be prima
facie evidence of an intent to commit burglary, robbery or larceny."
This means that the possesor can have a bit of an uphill battle and
has to convince the jury that this 'prima facie evidence' is
misleading.
Places where it *is* illegal to carry lock picks:
The District of Columbia, New York State and Illinois. New Jersey law
appears to make these illegal if they can work motor vehicle locks.
There may be many other places as well (such as Canada.) It can be
hard to tell since the relevant laws can be dealing with burglary,
motor vehicles or locksmith regulation, etc. This emphasizes the
importance of finding out for *your* area - and determining the
applicability to *your* circumstances (e.g., locksmith, full or
part-time), repo worker, building maintenance worker, ...
4. Where can I get the [38]"MIT Guide to Picking Locks"?
The author of the [39]"MIT Guide to Picking Locks", "Ted the Tool",
has posted a PostScript(TM) version of the Guide which can be
retrieved via ftp from:
ftp.indra.com:/archives/alt-locksmithing/MITGtLP/MITLockGuide.ps.Z
You will need a PostScript printer or previewer to view this file.
Dave Ferret scanned/typed in a version of the Guide, it is a file of
the text of the Guide and a collection of GIFs of the diagrams. This
can be found in ZIP and tar format in:
ftp.indra.com:/archives/alt-locksmithing/MITGtLP/unofficial
Mattias Wingstedt has converted the Guide to HTML and made it
available on the Web at
[40]http://www.lysator.liu.se/mit-guide/mit-guide.html.
Ken Waldron has converted the Guide to MS Word format and it can be
retrieved via ftp from:
ftp.indra.com:/archives/alt-locksmithing/mitguideMSW.zip
Since this is a zipped file, you will need to set ftp to binary mode
and then unzip it after retrieving it. You may want to start by
retrieving the small mitguideMSE.README file first.
4b. I can't print the Guide!
Try deleting the two lines that read:
statusdict /lettertray known {statusdict begin lettertray end} if
5. What books can I get on locksmithing?
An excellent encyclopedic reference:
The Complete Book of Locks & Locksmithing, 4th ed.
Bill Phillips McGraw-Hill, Inc. 1995
ISBN 0-07-049866-0 (Paper)
$24.95 (Paper) USA
and by the same author:
Professional Locksmithing Techniques, 2nd Edition
Bill Phillips TAB Books/McGraw-Hill 1996
ISBN 0-07-049867-9 (Paper) $36.95 (Paper)
also many people think highly of:
Eddie The Wire: How to Make Your Own Professional Lock Tools
"Eddie The Wire" Loompanics Unlimited
ISBN 0-685-39143-4 4 Volumes $20
Your local book store should be able to order these for you. You can
find other titles under "Locksmithing" in the Books In Print Subject
Index, which any decent bookstore should have. Also see the Appendix.
6. What are "pick guns" or "automatic pickers" and do they work?
A "pick gun" is a manual or powered device that uses a vibrating pin
to try to bounce the pin tumblers so there are spaces at the shear
line so the the plug can rotate. They are not a panacea, and aren't
always effective although some people find them to work extremely
well. The net seems to feel that these are no substitute for a little
skill with a pick and learning how locks work.
7. How do I open a Kryptonite lock?
Easiest: If you registered your lock, call or write Kryptonite for a
new key. Or call a local locksmith, they should be able to pick and
re-key the lock for you.
Easy: Get a car jack and jack it apart. Careful, otherwise it is very
possible that you'll damage the bike.
Easy: Use a cut-off wheel in a Dremel tool to cut the lock at the hole
in the shackle (where there is the least to cut.)
Harder: If it doesn't have the newer brass jacket, peel back the
plastic coating on the key end, drill out the pin that holds in the
cylinder, remove the cylinder, open.
Hardest: Chill the metal of the "U" with liquid Nitrogen or Freon,
smash with hammer. While this is a "well known" method, it may be an
urban legend.
8. Can the Club be picked? Is the Club any good?
Stan Schwarz writes:
I used to have a "Club", purchased on the recommendation of a
coworker. The first time I tried picking it, it took me
approximately 30 seconds, using the cap of a Papermate Flexgrip pen
for tension, and a bent jumbo paperclip to rake the pins. With
practice, I was able to reliably pick every "Club" I encountered in
5-30 seconds using these tools.
However, it doesn't really matter, no car thief is going to pick it,
they are going to cut the soft plastic steering wheel with a hacksaw
or bolt cutters and slip the Club off.
It has also been claimed that the Club can be broken if you grab it
with both hands, put your feet on the dashboard, and push with your
legs and pull with your arms as hard as you can. Be sure to wear
gloves!
The Club is useful as a deterrent, a car thief may pass over your car
for something easier. But if a thief wants your car, the Club will not
stop him. An alarm with an ignition kill and a theft recovery system
like LoJack is a better, but more expensive, option.
9. How can I get keys stamped "DO NOT DUPLICATE" duplicated?
Some locksmiths will take the Nike approach and "Just Do It". Some
will even stamp _"DO NOT DUPLICATE"_ on the copy for you. If that
doesn't work, label the key by sticking some tape on the _"DO NOT
DUPLICATE"_ stamp and try again. Many locksmiths aren't 'fooled' by
the tape, but many key-cutting clerks don't care.
10. Do Skeleton Keys Exists?
"Skeleton Keys" are keys ground to avoid the wards in warded locks.
There is no analog with modern pin tumbler locks. Master keys may open
a large set of locks, but this is designed in when the locks are
'pinned' with master pins.
11. Should I bother with high security ("pick proof") locks and other
security enhancements for my home?
Why not? If you are installing locks, the better quality ones are not
much more expensive, and are physically more secure (e.g., have
hardened inserts to protect against drilling.) However, note that
protection against picking doesn't add a large amount to your security
since burglars almost always go the brute force route. Regardless, you
should have a deadbolt, and check your window security.
An excellent project is to do a security survey of your own premises.
Look at the entire problem - consider lighting and visibility, as well
as the locks, doors and windows. Ask your insurance agent, you may be
eligible for a premium reduction if you make a few changes in your
home such as a) adding deadbolt locks, and b) installing smoke
detectors and fire extinguishers.
12. What should I do after I read a book?
After some reading, then the next thing is some experience. Go to
K-Mart, buy a deadbolt lock for around $10, and take the entire thing
apart (you'll need tools like screwdrivers, and perhaps a pair of
pliers) to see how a pin tumbler lock works. K-Mart carries a clone of
the Kwikset deadbolt which is made to be very easy to take apart.
(Key-in-knob locksets are both more expensive and harder to take
apart.)
You then can practice picking this lock by leaving out all but one
stack of pins. This will be exceedingly easy to pick, and will mostly
provide experience in manipulating the pick and tension wrench. Then
put in one more pin stack and try again - feeling when one stack is
picked and the plug rotates minutely - so little that it is felt
rather than seen. Then when the second one is picked that will let the
plug move, unlocking the lock. Keep on adding stacks. Try picking with
the curved finger (or feeler) pick, and also raking.
There are also many people on the net who are willing to help in
various areas. Posting a question on alt.locksmithing can help find
someone. One person who is willing to offer free advice about old
doors and door locks is Dr. Dorlock (keyl@airmail.net) who tells us,
"My only interest is saving old doors from "butchery" by professionals
who do not know new solutions to old problems." Write him or check his
web page: http://web2.airmail.net/keyl/drd.html (Don't write to him
about lockpicking.)
13. How do I continue learning about locksmithing?
There are several things you can do to continue learning more about
locks and locksmithing. One, of course, is to subscribe to a
locksmithing magazine. Some years ago I compared the National
Locksmith to the Locksmith Ledger and felt that the latter was a bit
better on technical info. Call yourself a Student Locksmith, or
perhaps a Security Consultant (surely you have given some advice to
*somebody*!). Also read The Complete Book of Locks & Locksmithing, 4th
ed. by Bill Phillips which was mentioned above.
Lock companies are starting to use the Internet to distribute
information. One example is [41]Medeco which is starting to develop a
Web site. At this time they only have a questionaire about what type
of information you would like to see on their Web site. [42]Schlage
also has a Web site with a lot of information.
But all this reading can help only so much, so you have to continue
buying various types of locks, taking them apart, figuring out
everything about them, and installing, removing, modifying them. Buy
some key blanks, make up a master key scheme, and file the keys to fit
(assuming you don't have a key machine yet) - filing may take a few
minutes, but it does work. Maybe buy a re-keying kit (kit of different
size pins, with a plug follower) and do some re-keying for your family
or friends (the same size pins fit, I think, the familiar Kwikset and
Schlage pin tumbler locks) so that their deadbolts can be opened with
their normal front door key. (Hint - when disassembling a lock you may
want to do it inside a transparent plastic bag. Then the small pieces
and springs will be trapped and won't go flying across the room,
leaving you with a sad look on your face.) (A follower is used to push
the plug out, when the pins are at the shear line, therefore keeping
the top pins and springs in place. Then the rekeyed plug is used to
push out the follower, again keeping the top pins and springs in
place. Similarly the follower can be used when loading new springs and
top pins, keeping the loaded ones in place.)
Or buy a deadbolt installation kit (hole saw plus template - I think
that Black and Decker makes a good one, available at better building
supply places) and put in a few deadbolts for your family and friends
- charging them only for the materials plus a couple of bucks towards
the installation kit - and re-key the deadbolt for them, too.
Buy or make a pick set, and use your practice locks to practice
picking. Do you have a good locksmith supply catalog? If not, give a
call to a local supplier, or perhaps to Kenco of Omaha, Nebraska (they
have an 800 number) and get their catalog - they sell lots of goodies
including most everything I've been discussing. Help people at work
who have been locked out of their desks or filing cabinets. Desks
usually have wafer tumbler locks which are *much* easier to pick than
pin tumbler locks. Filing cabinets are not as easy to pick, but are
pickable (actually some are very easy to pick - they vary greatly) and
also can be opened by pushing a flexible plastic ruler between the
side of the sliding drawer and the cabinet body - carefully inspect
some working cabinets to see what I'm talking about.
13a. How do I learn the locksmithing trade?
Joe Kesselman posted this advice:
The mail-order questions will teach you the very basics -- but
that's just a starting point. Their main value is in teaching you
what questions to ask and some terminology so you can go on to
learn more from other sources. You _can_ get started this way, but
it takes determination and considerable additional effort. As with
any trade, there's a lot of detail to learn and skills that come
only with practice.
If you're planning to apprentice to an established locksmith (not
at all a bad idea) you might want to start by asking around and
determining whether the folks in your area would be more likely to
give you a chance after you've taken one of these courses. Some
consider the course a helpful bootstrap, some don't. In my area,
shops seem to be looking for folks who are willing to take on the
automotive work so the principals can spend their time doing more
interesting (and lucrative) stuff, and I'm not convinced the
learn-at-home classes teach much that's useful about this corner of
the field.
Joe also points out that locksmithing associations, shows and journals
are valuable sources of continuing education.
Jay Hennigan added:
... However, the best way to really learn the trade is by working
in a real lock shop for a period of time. There are "tricks of the
trade" that can only be learned in such an environment, and this
trade tends to be more secretive than most, due to the (IMHO
misguided) belief in "security through obscurity".
There is a general feeling that most of the correspondence courses
give limited and dated information which isn't sufficient to become a
locksmith, and that taking such a course may not even be an advantage
in getting a job in a real lock shop. However there are some courses
(both residential and correspondence) which have better reputations.
One such school is:
Lockmasters
5058 Danville Rd.
Nicholasville, KY 40356
(606) 885-6041
13b. How do I learn more about Master Keying?
Here are some references:
The Manual of Master Keying, by G.L. Finch available from The National
Locksmith
Gerry Finch is highly regarded as a technical writer on locksmithing.
He may still sell his books direct: P.O. Box 4009, Redondo Beach CA
90278
Fundamentals of Master Keying, by Jerome Andrews available from ALOA
Master Keying by the Numbers, by Billy Edwards available from Security
Resources
14. How do Simplex pushbutton locks work?
Hobbit has written an excellent discussion on workings of Simplex
locks. Hobbit left FTP Software and his FTP archive is currently
unavailable. However we have [43]a copy available.
15. Is there a formula that can find the combination of a Master Lock?
Not as far as anyone knows. You can buy code books with which will
tell you the combination for a given serial number, but these are big
somewhat expensive books that list (nearly) every lock.
However, John F. Bousquet <bousquet@crl.com>writes:
There is another way. There is a shirt picket sized formula book.
From the serial number you determine which of several progressions
were used by the factory. Then a guide number is found from the
table to divide into the serial number and a remainder is found.
This is referenced on a page in the guide. The last digit is
manipulated and that narrows it down to about 5 possibilities. I
bought one of these 20 page pocket Try out combination finders and
never wound up using it. Now I just call it up on notebook
computer.
16. Can the combination of a Master Lock be found though manipulation?
Recently a method of finding the combination of a Master Lock has been
presented on alt.locksmithing. It seems there is a formula that
relates the numbers in a combination to each other. The first and last
digit of any combination will both have the same remainder when
divided by 4, and the second digit's remainder when divided by 4 will
be - or + 2 from the first and third's remainder. For example, if you
knew the last digit of the combination was 5, the first digit could be
any digit that had a remainder of 1 when divided by 4 and the second
number any digit with a remainder of 3 when divided by 4. This means
given one number in the combination, there are only ten numbers that
can be in each of the other two positions, and thus only 100 possible
combinations given one number in the combination.
And it turns out there is an easy way to find the last digit of the
combination. On older Master Locks, ones where the arrow at the top is
raised, simply pull on the shackle and turn the dial until it catches,
that's the third number in the combination. On news locks with the
recessed arrow, there are twelve places the dial will catch if you
turn it while pulling on the shackle. Seven of these will catch
between two numbers, ignore these, and find the the five that catch on
a number. Four of these will end in the same digit, i.e, 1, 11, 21,
and 31, the fifth end with a different digit, and the is the third
number in the combination.
This means that given the knowledge, time, and patience, anyone can
find the combination and open your lock. But then so can anyone with a
pair of bolt cutters, a hacksaw, or maybe even a hammer. These are
three (US) dollar locks. They have many useful applications, but they
are not high security locks. Plan your usage accordingly.
_PLEASE_ don't post a question on alt.locksmithing giving a serial
number and asking for the combination for that lock. Yes - there are
books relating the two - but very few people will take you at your
word that it is your own lock. Instead the most likely result is the
start of a flame war!
17. What is the "shear line"?
Visualize a door lock - there is a fixed block (the lock body or
cylinder) of metal with a cylindrical hole in it - the axis of this
hole is horizontal. It is filled with a "plug" which is the part which
turns with your key - and something attached to the rear of the plug
actuates the latch/bolt when you turn the plug with the key. There are
some small vertical holes drilled in both the plug and the fixed block
so they match up - and they are in a straight line which is the same
line as the key. Each hole (pin chamber) is filled with (at least) two
pins (small cylindrical pieces of metal - except that the portion of
the bottom pin which touches the key is pointed) but the pins are of
varying length, and there is a spring at the top of the chamber so
that the pins are pushed away by the spring. The bottom pin is short
enough so that it will be pushed completely down within the plug and
the top pin (imagining right now there are just two pins - extra ones
are only used for master keying) goes from inside the top block to
inside the plug. Now the plug can't turn, because in each pin chamber
there will be a pin blocking the "shear" line - the line where the pin
chamber would "shear" apart when the plug turned.
You put your key in - and the different heights on the key are made to
"complement" the different lengths of the bottom pin so that all of
the bottom pins are raised up just to the "shear line" between the
plug and the fixed block part of the lock. Then the key can turn the
plug around its axis and actuate whatever internal mechanisms are
inside.
18. What is "impressioning"?
Impressioning is a technique for opening a lock by making a key out of
a key blank for the lock. The blank is filed to fit; the place and
amount of filing depends upon small marks left on the key blank by the
pin tumblers. The procedure starts with smoothing the key blank with
fine abrasive paper or a very fine file to remove any marks or
scratches and to leave a surface which will show the marks. The key
blank is then inserted into the lock and the blank twisted from side
to side and rocked up and down. The blank is removed and inspected for
marks and a shallow cut made with a file on the mark closest to the
tip of the blank, or on the most prominent mark. (There are several
systems for determining which mark should be cut and for the correct
way to twist and rock.)
Repeat this for the same position until the tumbler doesn't leave any
mark on the blank and then move to the next pin. When the last cut is
made the lock should open with the newly cut key - assuming that the
interpretation of the marks and the cutting has been done right.
The advantage of impressioning for opening a lock is that it creates a
key for that lock. But the process is slow and requires a fair amount
of skill. With expert skill levels, the process is considerably
faster. There are a number of special pliers made to hold the blank
and make it easier to give the proper twist with rocking that will
mark the blank. The marks on the blank are difficult to see and you
must start with a blank that fits the lock. (Or several blanks, as
this doesn't always work the first time.) Impressioning may not be as
quick and easy as picking the lock. Picking a lock often leaves
tell-tale scratches on the tumblers and plug that won't happen with
impressioning.
A manual on impressioning by Mark Wanlass is available in the ftp
archives of indra.com -
ftp.indra.com:/archives/alt-locksmithing/impressioning The web
version, converted by Samuel Weiler (weiler@cs.swarthmore.edu), is
available at:
http://www.cs.swarthmore.edu/~weiler/locks/impressioning.html
19. What is a code? What is a codebook?
Ever see a lock on a desk, filling cabinet, or a key with a number
stamped on it like FR332, 2H5212, or 61624? Those are called codes.
They tell locksmiths exactly how to cut a key to fit the lock. There
are three types of codes. There are direct digit codes. Each digit
corresponds to each cut on the key, the value of each digit tell how
deep to make the cut. Schlage prints the code for the key directly on
the key. These codes are usually long, each pin needs its own digit.
The second type in which each digit does not directly correspond to
the depth, but there is a pattern between the code and the key. Often
mathematical tricks are used (for example you must subtract 435 from
the code, then cut the key).
The last type require a locksmith to have a codebook. There is no
pattern to the cuts on the keys. The Reed Codebooks are one of the
most common. There are 12 general volumes (cars, cabinet, suit cases,
door locks) and 5 padlock volumes. Each volume is about 600 pages
long. Several manufactures now selling computer programs that contain
all this information. The software is often copy-protected.
Here's information on several products - all have demo disks. Note
that features differ, and so different programs may appeal to
different users.
* Blackhawk Products: DOS version $399, Windows version $479,
copy-protected by use of a hardware key.
* HPC: DOS version possibly being phased out; Windows version
recently introduced. Suggested list price $695. Disk-based copy
protection on the DOS version. (Windows version - ?)
* Locksmith Ledger: DOS version a little under $699.95, Windows
version promised in the "near" future. No copy protection.
* Treskat: DOS version only, $679. Disk-based copy protection.
20. How do I open a car door with a Slim Jim?
Besides picking the lock, one can open a car door with a wire coat
hanger. Open the coat hanger by unbending the wire, leaving a small
loop at one end. Insert the looped end of the wire hanger between the
rubber weather stripping and a side window. Hook the looped end of the
wire around the button of the door lock and pull it up to the open
position. Many lock buttons are without a lip, an anti-theft measure,
so that the wire coat hanger slides off without lifting it. One can
also try to snag the door handle and pull it open.
The Slim Jim, a thin strip of metal with a notch cut at the bottom
side, slides down the passenger window into the door. The notch tries
to catch a rod running inside the door that connects the lock and the
lock buttons. Pulling on this rod pops the lock into the open
position. Many modern cars have the rod shielded from this access.
Most cars today have many wires running through the doors to control
such things as power windows, power locks, heated side view mirrors,
lighted key ways, and burglar alarms. The Slim Jim can snag one of
these, or a mechanical part and cause damage. Most locksmiths advise
against using a Slim Jim except on old cars. The pros often use
wedges, lights and manuals of parts locations to avoid damage and
increase their success rate.
21. What is a jiggler key?
A thin piece of metal cut in the general shape of a key, the jiggler
slips into the keyway of many locks and most car locks. The jigglers
in the set come with a variety of general cuts that vaguely resemble
cuts on keys. A jiggler is slipped into the lock and moved around,
much as using a rake type pick, until the lock opens. If one jiggler
does not work then the next one in the set is tried. Probability of
success depends on the skill of the user and on luck.
22. Is there an ethical dimension to locksmithing?
Yes. Locksmithing is an old craft, and there is a strong tradition of
ehtical responsibility. A trainee (apprentice) learned about locks and
security, and was supposed to have the personal integrity to avoid
abusing that knowledge. This "do no harm" concept has been
incorporated into the 'hacker ethic' which is found at MIT (in the
"hacking community") and elsewhere.
23. I have a safe without the combination - how do I open it?
Either throw the safe away, or pay a safe expert to open it, or
perhaps work out a trade with the safeman: he opens it, you get the
contents, and he gets the safe. Please try and use a tiny bit of
common sense: if anyone could get a quick and easy way to open your
safe by posting to alt.locksmithing, your safe wouldn't be worth a
damn, would it?"
24. How do I disassemble a Kwikset key-in-knob entry set?
0) Open the door. (If you can't, call a locksmith!)
1) Dismount outer knob from door (the screws are on the indoor side.)
2) Depress spring retainer and remove spindle.
3) Reach in through spindle opening and gently release spring.
retainers by pushing towards center. This can be done -- VERY
awkwardly -- with a pair of narrow screwdrivers. Or you can get a
Kwikset Removal Tool (inexpensive), which is just a short piece of
sheet steel of the correct width with a "U" chomped into the end. The
points of the U engage the tips of the retainers and move them
automagically. 4) Cylinder will pop out of knob. Rekey normally.
5) When done, snap everything back together and reinstall.
If you need more detail than that, you should probably leave this task
to someone who has done it before, or at least get them to give you a
hands-on lesson. The only part that isn't Trivially Obvious is the
operation of the retainers, and the above should be sufficient info
for you to figure that out.
Other online locksmithing related resources:
* [44]Graham Pulford's "Catalogue of High Security Locks"
ftp://ftp.indra.com/archives/alt-locksmithing/hiseclox.ps.Z
* [45]"MIT Guide to Picking Locks" Web page.
http://www.lysator.liu.se/mit-guide/mit-guide.html
* [46]"MIT Guide to Picking Locks" in Postscript.
ftp://ftp.indra.com/archives/alt-locksmithing/MITGtLP/MITLockGuide
.ps.Z
* [47]Hobbit's Simplex lock description
* [48]Steve Haehnichen's pick images
ftp://ftp.vigra.com/steve/locks/
* [49]Medeco High Security Locks, Inc.
* [50]The Online Loompanics Catalog
gopher://gopher.well.sf.ca.us/00/Business/catalog.asc
* [51]Locksmiths on the Web - run by Colin Fester, CML, in Mandurah
in Western Australia.
* [52]The National Locksmith trade magazine.
* [53]South Carolina Locksmith Association
* [54]The Locksmith
* [55]Gardall Safe Corporation
* [56]California state law regulating locksmiths - select "Business
and Professions Code" and put "locksmith" in the search box.
* [57]Greater Philadelphia Locksmith Association
* [58]Northwest Locksmith Association
* [59]New York Association of In-house Locksmiths, Inc.
* [60]Locksmith Publishing Corp. Locksmith Ledger
* [61]Various locksmithing information. Directory picking.tools has
images of pages from Septon catalog.
Glossary:
There is also a [62]Dictionary for Locksmiths being developed by the
LIST Council which can be seen at the Greater Philadelphia Locksmith
Association Web site.
blank
A key that has not yet been cut to fit a lock.
core
A removable cylinder and plug, used in a interchangeable core
system.
core key (sometimes control key)
A key which is used to remove a core.
cylinder
The part of the lock in which the the pins are set and which
contains the plug.
cuts
The notches cut in the key to make it fit a lock.
follower (plug follower)
This is a cylindrical object of the same outer diameter as the
plug (there are various diameters, often about 1/2") which is
used to push out or follow the plug when the plug is to be
removed. This retains the top pins and springs in the lock
body.
key way
(short answer) The slot into which the key is inserted.
(long answer) Refers to (a) the size and shape of the
(cross-section of the) key, and (b) the opening in the lock
which is shaped to admit the key and to keep out most keys of
different sizes and shapes. Whether the keyway can be patented
by the lock manufacturer as a way to prevent others from
manufacturing compatible key blanks and therefore to restrict
access is open to dispute. Recent court cases make it doubtful
that the simple design is patentable, but a keyway design which
is involved in the patented method of operation of a lock may
have patent protection.
master key
A key which opens a group of locks designed to match it.
pin tumblers
The pins in the lock which are moved to the shear line by the
key.
pin chamber
the tubular hole in which pins and a spring stay.
plug
The part of the lock which the key is inserted and is rotated
by the key.
sidebar
A lock part located at the 'side' of the plug and fitting into
longitudinal grooves in both the plug and the lock body. This
keeps the plug from turning until the sidebar is retracted into
the plug. Retraction is blocked until the correct key (or
picking) moves the pins or other tumblers to positions which
cease to block the retraction or produce some other action
allowing the retraction. A sidebar can add additional
positioning beyond the usual "shear line" and so can make
picking more difficult. A number of locks use a sidebar to
increase security.
wafer tumbler
Used in locks which are less expensive than pin tumbler locks.
They behave somewhat similarly.
warded lock
A lock using wards to keep an incorrect key from entering the
key hole and turning.
Appendix
Here are some of the things collected about locations and
availabilities (most are from alt.locksmithing). We do not endorse any
of these, but feel that you can get information by reading. As of this
writing Septon and Paolo are the only suppliers that will sell to
overseas customers.
Septon, Inc. P.O. Box 9, Malden-on-Hudson, NY 12453
(800) 537-8752 voice (914) 246-3416 fax (914) 246-0638 outside North
America
Will sell to overseas customers, but requires credit cards and a U.S.
$100 minimum order on such sales.
Call for Catalog.
Steve Arnold's Gunroom (URL http://www.cyber-core.com/gunroom/) sells
a variety of pick sets, pick guns, and a small number of books. They
will handle foreign orders which are paid for by an international
money order in US currency.
Steve Arnold's Gun Room
PO Box 68
Dept. Net
Dexter,OR 97431
541 726-6360
possible e-mail amooooo@aol.com
Paolo's On-Line (Paolo Sica who participates in alt.locksmithing
paolos@pobox.com) carries Code Books, lock picks, tools and various
other non-locksmithing items.) URL: http://paolo.simplenet.com/
Phoenix Systems Inc. P.O. Box 3339, Evergreen, CO 80439
303-277-0305 [Survivalist Group, all though the "Shoot all the Commies
for God" stuff is kept to a minimum.]
Call for Catalog.
Here are a few titles: (with Library of Congress Catalog Number)
- - ----------------------
Title: Locksmithing
Author: F.A. Steed
LC Number: TS 520 S73 1982
Title: All About Locks and Locksmithing
Author: Max Alth
LC Number: TS 520 A37 1972
Title: Professional Locksmithing Techniques
Author: Bill Phillips
LC Number TS 520 P55 1991
See Question 5 for some more book citations. A source of locksmithing
and general security books is:
IAHSSP Books
P. O. Box 2044
Erie, PA 16512-2044
Ph: (814) 868-0650
Their catalog is free; they stock lots of professional and
hard-to-find material; will sell to overseas customers.
You can buy books on many topics from (no credit cards)
Loompanics Unlimited
Publishers & Sellers of Unusual Books
P.O. Box 1197
Port Townsend, WA 98368
When they say unusual, they mean it! Everything from igloo
construction to techniques of execution. There is now a $5 charge for
their catalog. As far as we know they do not have a phone or fax for
orders.
#52042 B & E: A TO Z - HOW TO GET IN ANYWHERE, ANYTIME (VHS TAPE) by
Scott French, 1987. Nearly two full hours of on-site techniques to get
in any building, beat any lock, open any safe, enter any car. Price:
$59.95
#40031 INVOLUNTARY REPOSSESSION -OR- IN THE STEAL OF THE NIGHT by John
Russell III (64pp, 1979). Written by a private detective for auto
repossessors. All the standard methods of entering and starting
locked, keyless automobiles are given. Price: $10.95
#52050 TECHNIQUES OF BURGLAR ALARM BYPASSING by Wayne B. Yeager
(110pp, 1990). Alarms covered include: Magnetic Switches, Window Foil,
Sound and Heat Detectors, Photoelectric Devices, Guard Dogs, Central
Station Systems, Closed-Circuit Television, and more. Price: $14.95
#52047 THE B & E BOOK - BURGLARY TECHNIQUES AND INVESTIGATION by Burt
Rapp (149pp, 1989). This is an investigatory guide and practical
manual designed for the police officer in charge of a burglary
investigation and its follow-up. Price: $14.95
#52054 TECHNIQUES OF SAFECRACKING by Wayne B. Yeager (92pp, 1990).
Chapters include: Safe Mechanics and Operations, Guessing the
Combination, Manipulation Techniques, Safe Drilling Methods, Punching
and Peeling, Torches Etc., Explosives, Miscellaneous Methods of Safe
Entry, Safe Deposit Boxes, Deterrence and Prevention, and more. Price:
$12.00
#52052 HIGH SPEED ENTRY - INSTANT OPENING TECHNIQUES (VHS TAPE - 1Hr)
1990. Topics include: the Rabbit Tool and Hydra force door openers,
the Omni Force jam spreader, the best exothermic lance in the world,
two tools that open almost any auto in America, electronic locksmiths,
rippers and pullers, shove knives and re-lockers, and more "techie"
tools. A complete source guide is included. Price: $39.95
#52032 THE COMPLETE GUIDE TO LOCK PICKING by Eddie the Wire (80pp
1981). The very best book ever written on how to pick locks (quite the
claim). Topics covered include: Basic Principle and General Rules, How
To Mount Practice Locks, Warded Locks, Disc Tumbler Locks, Lever
Tumbler Locks, Pin Tumbler Locks, Wafer Tumbler Locks, Lock
Modifications To Thwart Tampering And How To Overcome Them, Various
Other Ways Of Bypassing Locks And Locking Mechanisms. Price: $14.95
#52040 HOW TO MAKE YOUR OWN PROFESSIONAL LOCK TOOLS (4 Volume set) by
Eddie the Wire (31pp, 1980; 50pp 1981; 44pp, 1981; 55pp, 1986).
Basically this set describes how to make all the tools mentioned the
above book along with mass production techniques, carrying cases,
using a PC to generate pick profiles, making "soft" break-ins, how to
"case" a subdivision, and more. Price: $20.00
#52044 PERSONAL PICKS (VHS TAPE - 72min) by Eddie the Wire, 1988.
Demonstrates the step-by-step process of making lock tools in the home
workshop. Price: $29.95
#52051 EXPERT LOCK PICKING (VHS TAPE - 60min) by Ron Reed, 1990. The
author has won the California Locksmiths Association lock-picking
championship (I guess that's good). Uses specially designed cutaway,
see-through locks, so you can view the inside mechanisms of working
locks as they respond to picking techniques. Price: $59.95
#52048 ADVANCED LOCK PICKING by Steven M. Hampton (50pp, 1989).
Describes the inner workings of the new high-security locks and
includes templates for making custom tools. Schematic diagrams for
portable electronic picks to open magnetic key and card locks. Tips on
enhancing finger sensitivity, concentration power, constructing
practice lock boxes, and more. Price: $10.00
#52045 CIA FIELD-EXPEDIENT KEY CASTING MANUAL (48pp, 1988). How to
make a duplicate key when you can keep the original only a short time.
Price: $8.00
#52043 HOW I STEAL CARS - A REPO MAN'S GUIDE TO CAR THIEVES' SECRETS
(VHS TAPE - 45min) by Pierre Smith, 1988. How to open and enter
practically any modern automobile and how to start them without the
key. Price: $49.95
#52016 HOW TO FIT KEYS BY IMPRESSIONING by Desert Publications (26pp,
1975). Subjects covered include: Fitting bit keys, Fitting flat steel
keys, Fitting lever tumbler keys, Fitting disc tumbler keys, Necessary
tools, Techniques of obtaining impressions, and more. Price: $7.00
Wheeler-Tanner Escapes
3024 E. 35th
Spokane, WA 99223
509 448 8457.
Mainly Magic/Escape Artist supplies, but that includes lots of
locksmithing equipment and books. If you need more info, jusk ask.
(Catalog is $2, refundable w/ 1st order).
Information for collectors.?
Lock Museum of America
130 Main St.
Terryville, CT
This museum also sponsors a lock collectors show.
The Padlock Collector 6th edition 1996
Franklin M. Arlall (isbn 0-914638-05-x)
The Collector
PO Box 253
Claremont, CA 91711
This book has descriptions of over 2800 locks.
Credit & Thanks
The alt.locksmithing FAQ was put together from postings by
[63]spike@indra.com spike@indra.com (Joe "Spike" Ilacqua), and
hes@ncsu.edu (Henry Schaffer), with a major data collection effort by
sanguish@digifix.com (Scott Anguish). Edited by hes. Translated to
English by eliz@world.std.com (Elizabeth Lear). Send comments,
criticisms, and compliments to "alt-locksmithing-faq@indra.com".
The following have contributed to this FAQ:
Scott Anguish <sanguish@digifix.com>
J. James (Jim) Belonis II <manager@dirac.phys.washington.edu>
Stephen J Berch <sberch@world.std.com>
John F. Bousquet <bousquet@crl.com>
Chris Boyd <clb@oc.com>
Robert Bruce Findler <rf27+@andrew.cmu.edu>
Hobbit <hobbit@>(looking for current address);
Marcus Jenkins <marcusj@apricot.co.uk>
Larry Margolis <margoli@watson.ibm.com>
Andy McFadden <fadden@uts.amdahl.com>
William A Moyes <wmoyes@cello.gina.calstate.edu>
Stan Schwarz <schwarz_sm@dir.texas.gov>
Thomas E Zerucha <zerucha@shell.portal.com>
Daniel Hagan <dhagan@vt.edu>
Joe Kesselman <keshlam@alum.mit.edu>
Roger Weitzenkamp <103347.3165@CompuServe.com>
Jay Hennigan <jay@west.net>
Billy B. Edwards Jr. <BMP1@concentric.net>
<aa-2@deltanet.com>
Thanks to:
Indra's Net -- Internet Access with an Attitude
Email: info@indra.com URL: http://www.indra.com
Modem: (303) 786-7405 Voice: (303) 546-9151
for providing host facilities.
References
1. news:alt.locksmithing
2. news:alt.locksmithing
3. news:alt.answers
4. news:news.answers
5. file://localhost/home/guest/hes/index.html#q1
6. file://localhost/home/guest/hes/index.html#q2
7. file://localhost/home/guest/hes/index.html#q3
8. file://localhost/home/guest/hes/index.html#q4
9. file://localhost/home/guest/hes/index.html#q4b
10. file://localhost/home/guest/hes/index.html#q5
11. file://localhost/home/guest/hes/index.html#q6
12. file://localhost/home/guest/hes/index.html#q7
13. file://localhost/home/guest/hes/index.html#q8
14. file://localhost/home/guest/hes/index.html#q9
15. file://localhost/home/guest/hes/index.html#q10
16. file://localhost/home/guest/hes/index.html#q11
17. file://localhost/home/guest/hes/index.html#q12
18. file://localhost/home/guest/hes/index.html#q13
19. file://localhost/home/guest/hes/index.html#q13a
20. file://localhost/home/guest/hes/index.html#q13b
21. file://localhost/home/guest/hes/index.html#q14
22. file://localhost/home/guest/hes/index.html#q15
23. file://localhost/home/guest/hes/index.html#q16
24. file://localhost/home/guest/hes/index.html#q17
25. file://localhost/home/guest/hes/index.html#q18
26. file://localhost/home/guest/hes/index.html#q19
27. file://localhost/home/guest/hes/index.html#q20
28. file://localhost/home/guest/hes/index.html#q21
29. file://localhost/home/guest/hes/index.html#q22
30. file://localhost/home/guest/hes/index.html#q23
31. file://localhost/home/guest/hes/index.html#q24
32. file://localhost/home/guest/hes/index.html#online
33. file://localhost/home/guest/hes/index.html#glossary
34. file://localhost/home/guest/hes/index.html#appendix
35. file://localhost/home/guest/hes/index.html#collect
36. file://localhost/home/guest/hes/index.html#credit
37. ftp://ftp.vigra.com/steve/locks/
38. ftp://ftp.indra.com/archives/alt-locksmithing/MITGtLP/MITLockGuide.ps.Z
39. ftp://ftp.indra.com/archives/alt-locksmithing/MITGtLP/MITLockGuide.ps.Z
40. http://www.lysator.liu.se/mit-guide/mit-guide.html
41. http://www.medeco.com/
42. http://www.trope.com/schlage/index.html
43. http://www.indra.com/archives/alt-locksmithing/hobbit.html
44. ftp://ftp.indra.com/archives/alt-locksmithing/hiseclox.ps.Z
45. http://www.lysator.liu.se/mit-guide/mit-guide.html
46. ftp://ftp.indra.com/archives/alt-locksmithing/MITGtLP/MITLockGuide.ps.Z
47. file://localhost/home/guest/hes/href=
48. ftp://ftp.vigra.com/steve/locks/
49. http://www.medeco.com/
50. gopher://gopher.well.sf.ca.us/00/Business/catalog.asc
51. http://mlkey.com.au/
52. http://www.TheNationalLocksmith.com/
53. http://members.aol.com/scribblerg/scla.htm
54. http://www.thelocksmith.com/~carlock/thelocksmith.html
55. http://http://www.gardall.com/
56. http://www.leginfo.ca.gov/
57. http://www.gpla.org/
58. http://www.premier1.net/~nwlakey/
59. http://www.locksmith.org/
60. http://www.lpc.simon-net.com/map.html
61. ftp://ftp://ftp.std.com/archives/alt.locksmithing/
62. http://www.gpla.org/list.html
63. http://www.indra.com/homepages/spike
Last-modified: 97/8/13